A Walk up Creag Meagaidh

So I went up North for a bit to visit the folks before they head of on holiday, we had a week of intensely shit weather up in Newtonmore but I picked my day and managed to get out on Wednesday.

There was a hostels meeting in Fort Augustus, so I got a lift to beside Loch Laggan and made my way towards the Meagaidh massive following the Moy Burn. Having not been in the hills out that way before I was cyked to get up Creag Meagaidh, see some nice autumnal views and scout Corrie Ardair for some future climbing.

I Headed up the Creag na Calliche ridge and finding some patches of fresh snow down to about 500m, first snow I'd seen this year! At the top of the crags on the ridge proper there were some lovely views looking south towards Binnein Shuas. So I had a wee stop to appreciate my surroundings, took some pics, had lunch and watched the the snow showers breaking over the distant hills.

Further up the ridge at about 1000m there was a good covering of the white stuff. Scoured and drifting into a lovely patchwork, the estate line wall had caught the snow on its east side and was fully banked out.

I followed the wall which turned into a fence fence (complete with rime ice) up onto the plato and just as this reassuring feature disappeared the weather got a bit nasty! I was expecting a nice donder, but its a good reminder of how nasty the Scottish hills can be in winter. Also a good refresher in white out navigation, took some bearings which where spot on finding both the summit cairn and crazy man's cairn with a minimum of fuss.

Across the plato I hit the cliffs and the clag cleared. The freezing level was rising, the snow turning to sleet and by the time I was down the window in the base of the corrie I was pretty soaked. Had a spot of food and tried to identify some routes, obviously nowt in condition yet, but no harm in looking. The longer routes on the pinnacle such as 1959 Face Route face look great as well as the ice on the post face.

Great wee walk and first taste of winter. Looks like there's a bit of snow coming down this week with a settled high coming for the weekend. So here's hoping for some climbing!

Rienhart is....

David Graham! Any one else see the resemblance?! Have you been leading a doubel life.... lol

link

PIcs: Andy making shapes in font. The punters and the Magic fire in Reiff.Rich jumping like a loon in Reiff.Mark fire walking like a mentalist in Reiff. More to follow......sometime.

northumberpics

Andy on Duke of York and Piano.Tim on The Sorcerer and The Crucifix traverse..more to follow.......

Nice wee piece Andy, the pic of Mark on DE (2nd shot) is a cover for sure.Nice work sir!

Northumberlandtastik!

This month has been the month of the county, a pilgrimage to the famous sand stone and sunny climbs of Northumbria.

Our first trip brought a much needed return to Back Bowden. Unfortunately not  looking quite as magical as it once did; The much talked about tree felling has happened and although it has destroyed the atmosphere of the crag the routes are already looking dryer.  I'm sure by spring time when things start growing it wont look quite as ravished.

It was on! The weather was ace and everything we fancied last time (we sat on mats in caves, eating and hiding from the rain!) was looking climbable.

Tim was raring to go and geared up for "The Wizard" with no warm up, he'd previously bouldered the bottom and thought the pull on to the slab would be alright, but no joy,  despite getting to within one move or so of the easy bit.

Sean wasted no time and being a face climbing kina guy with a dislike for udgeing got on "The Arches",  perhaps one of the most awkward route I've ever climbed!  However he made a grand effort and grunted and growled his way along the traverse. Good effort lad, Sorry for my uncontrollable laughter as the fear in your eyes pushed you through the crux.

My turn next and after spying "The Duke of York" last time stepped up, another supremely awkward and weird traverse route.   So started marching up and got my self squashed onto the ledge and into a very strange position, especially for establishing on the next section the lovely hand traverse.  Anyway I wont revel the beta, but the hand traverse was awesome and pumpy as hell,  I was just about off a few times but saved myself by throwing in a heel/toe hock every now and again and getting a sneaky Jam in at half way.

Go do this route!!!!!!

So Tim's lead but unfortunately he has been turned by the dark side and was off bouldering and sending some hardcore problems... Sean was loving the look of "The Magic Flute" and  had a go, cursing the first bit he got onto the ledge of the slab.  However the scary committing slab with no gear, the potential of a fall and smacking into the ledge spooked him and after much dancing and pondering he requested a top rope and walked up the finished moves.  Ah well good effort Sean.

I was keen so I had a go at the lead as well and can confirm that its a scary route... until I got a $%"£)( in the flutings, it now felt like an E1...

The day was rounded of nicely with a spot of bouldering, me and Sean got "Serotine" done and Tim sent several hard crimpy things. Well good.

So three more trips followed But I can't be bother writing anymore..

Warren Grring at "Canada Crack" Bowden Doors.

Sean and Tim sending "Crucifix Traverse", Kyloe in the woods. A lovely problem, I'll be back!

Wee Mark Loving "Devils edge", Kyloe Out.

Punters Fim fest

OMG so excited "On-sight" is being posted today, get some clips here.
So reckon as a precursor to the EMFF we should have a PFF, night of beer and climb DVD's? Tim did you have "Cyke", Sean "Dosage V", also "The Sharp End" is out as well anyone wana get that? .

Who's game? Venue Neil's and Marks, big TV and sound? What evening could every one make.

low quality pics from quality trip

cheerio, folks!
as i had a funny wipeout this morning resulting in a broken board nose and a blue ankle i finally got my thin ass out of the atlantic and will post some pics from the trip to ladakh in august. it was amazing!!! the more botanically minded amongst you may recognize the plants that the donkeys are eating - we were quite surprised when we got off the bus to have a piss and found the thing growing all over the place...:)
ladakh's quite a dry place, few water and even fewer beer... however, we spent a great time there with the ascent of stok kangri (20082ft) as a high"light" - damn hard to breathe there!
well, i'm quite looking forward to my return to scotland's green and wet pastures and am quite happy to see that you people continue to do some great stuff! best regards
el reini

Ecky on an E1(!??) at Reiff

EMF

So apparently tickets are selling fast who, fancy's what? Reckon I'll be game for Sunday night and maybe one other?